How To Build a Stylish Wardrobe: Starting With the Basics
To build a stylish wardrobe, you need to start with “the basics”- these are the building blocks of any well-dressed man's collection. They’ll range from formal necessities to casual classics and will be a capsule of stylish pieces that have stood the test of time. If you look at menswear throughout the years, colours and cuts have varied but these items have been a constant.
I put my money where my mouth is: I own every item listed and I truly believe that they are the foundations for a solid clothing collection. It’s what I started with. I will also include pictures from my own collection showing how to mix-and-match the items so you get maximum value for money from them. Dressing well isn’t necessarily cheap but it doesn’t have to break the bank either. With a few sensible purchases and making the most of the sales, you can start garnering a well-rounded collection of clothes in no-time.
It can be a little overwhelming at first so I’ve broken it down into sub-sections, that way, you can focus on one area at a time.
Eyewear
Because squinting is never a good look, every well-dressed man needs a pair of sunglasses. There are a multitude of options available and different styles will or won’t work depending on the shape of your face. You may have to try a few different varieties but first and foremost, work out which shape your face is.
Sunglasses
The style that suits the most face shapes is the classic wayfarer. Worn by everyone from JFK to Tom Cruise, they’ve adorned the faces of style icons for decades. If you’re going to pick up your fist pair of stylish sunglasses, the classic Wayfarer by Ray Ban is a good first choice. If you’re after something a little different, make like me (and Steve McQueen) and pick up a more elegant pair from Persol with blue lenses.
Blue lens Persols made famous by Steve McQueen- Always in style
Outerwear
The unbeatable 3-button, Navy Epsom coat
Coats
There’s a myriad of coat styles available but in the interest of getting you started, a classic three button Epsom coat in navy will offer the most bang for your buck. It can be worn over a suit or with trousers and a roll neck jumper. This is an enduring classic that has never been, nor will it ever go, out of style. It will even work with jeans.
Jackets
A straight cut, tan suede jacket is another versatile piece that will earn its money. It can easily be worn with jeans and a white tee or with trousers and a knitted polo shirt. Just try not to wear it in the rain. If you live in a wet climate then a beige Harrington or a bomber jacket is the way to go.
A tan suede jacket can be dressed up or down
Tailoring
Suit
Every man should own a suit. For interviews, weddings, formal engagements and just about anything else; it is the standard for non-black tie formal dressing. A two-button, notch lapel suit is the timeless style. Go for one in mid grey: it’s the male equivalent of the little black dress and can be worn with both black and brown shoes.
The classic grey suit
Blazer
I’m torn between recommending a grey or a navy blazer; I consider both to be necessary but as I selected a grey suit, I’d recommend that you pick up the navy blazer first. Suitsupply do a great version in a lightweight, breathable wool. Best of all, it’s half-lined, meaning it can be worn through the warmer months. If you live in a place with a mild winter climate like London, this blazer is the perfect option for all four-seasons.
This blazer will work with trousers, chino, jeans, shoes, and trainers- The most versatile blazer you can buy
Shirts
Every man needs a range of shirts for a variety of different reasons: for work, formal occasions, dating etc., but there are two shirts that should be the first to go in your revamped wardrobe.
Dress Shirt
There are few finer things in life than a freshly pressed, crisp white shirt. Aim for something with a hint of stretch for comfort, in a cotton poplin with a semi-spread collar: they look great with a tie and when worn open under a jacket or jumper. With a range of fits available and different sleeve lengths to choose from, you could do a lot worse than start your search at Charles Tyrwhitt. They do multi-buy deals too.
Casual Shirt
An oxford cloth button-down (OCBD) shirt in light blue is another necessity. They’re versatile, hard-wearing and wash up really well. They can dress up a pair of chinos and trainers, and they’re made for rolling the sleeves up on. They are very much a casual shirt though and should be avoided with a suit. Uniqlo’s Oxford shirts fit great and are good value for money. Photo © Reiss
Tops
The white tee- A great base layer to work off of
T-Shirts
There’s a reason why James Dean is still remembered as a style icon. I bet when you read his name you pictured him in that white t-shirt, didn’t you? Another classic to add to the collection, a fresh white tee will pair well with denim and chinos but can also be worn under a blazer for smart-casual style.
Polo Shirts
The navy blue polo shirt is next up. I prefer mine with a sharper collar: they look a little neater than your standard polo. Wear with beige or pale gray chinos and white trainers for fuss-free summertime style. Orlebar Brown and Sunspel, especially with their Riviera polo are great places to start. Although I think at full price, Orlebar Brown’s polos are overpriced so you may want to wait for the sales. Photo © Sunspel
My summertime hero piece
Knitwear
Crew Neck
The ecru and navy Breton stripe crew neck jumper has had a bit of a renaissance in the last few years and it doesn’t appear to be going away either. Pair with chinos for easy French flair. Yachts are optional.
Relaxed, stylish & Riviera ready, the Breton stripe jumper is another classic menswear item
A smart, easy way to style a v-neck. Ideal for dress-down Fridays, date nights and any smart-casual occasion
V-Neck
A navy blue, merino V-neck jumper will pair great with both the white shirt and the OCBD I mentioned earlier. It will also go with the trousers I’ll be suggesting shortly. It can pair just as easily with jeans and boots as it can with trousers and shoes. Remember, maximum versatility.
Roll-Neck
A grey roll neck sweater is another style icon that’s effortlessly stylish. Apart from giving you an air of a Parisian left-bank intellectual, they’ll keep your neck warm in the winter. Photo © Uniqlo
The roll-neck can pair with jeans and trousers
Shawl Collar Cardigan
Keeping you warm when there’s a nip in the air but not cold enough for a coat. Aim for something in merino or lamb’s wool, and a chunky shawl collar cardigan makes an excellent transitional piece for spring/autumn.
A perfect outfit for an autumn day. Notice how all the items I’m suggesting are starting to tie-in together?
Bottoms
Jeans
Dark wash, selvedge denim is the way to go. I’m not generally a fan of blazers with jeans but you can pair a jacket with them although not for formal occasions. They’re also a weekend and downtime staple and go great with trainers and boots. Get something with stretch for added comfort.
Chinos
Opt for a lightweight chino in beige for the spring and summer months. They exude Riviera style and can be worn with shirts, polo shirts and even blazers. The neutral colour makes it an ideal base to wear with a variety of colours, from whites through pastel shades to navy blue.
Navy polo and beige chinos; a summer staple look
Trousers
Depending on the climate where you live, a flannel trouser is a necessity. In a light grey shade, these will work with a roll neck jumper or a shirt and a blazer. They’re an enduring menswear classic and they’re nice and warm too.
Footwear
Trainers
You need a pair of minimalist white trainers. There are fewer more versatile items you can have in your closet than these. Depending on how bold you are, you can even wear them with a suit although that’s not a look I favour. Reiss do a great version in grain leather, making them hard-wearing and easy to clean too.
Shoes
If I’ve said it once, I’ve said it a million times. A man cannot be well dressed in bad shoes. It’s impossible. Which shoes you buy however, will depend on your personal requirements. If you work in banking for example, a black Derby or Oxford is non-negotiable. If you’re looking to elevate your style for dating or generally just dressing better, a chestnut coloured pair of double monk straps are about as versatile a shoe as you can find.
The double monk strap- Bolder than a regular shoe, they’ll lend your outfit a sartorial flourish
Monk Strap Shoes
They look great with a navy or light grey suit, will pair with the flannel trousers I suggested above and will work with chinos and even jeans for a relaxed drink or dinner date at the weekend. If you can stretch your budget for two pairs opt for a black derby shoe too. If you only buy one pair of shoes to get you started though, make it a double monk-strap.
Boots
Likewise, a sturdy pair of ankle boots for the colder months should be on your list. A brown suede pair of chukka boots will be a versatile addition to your wardrobe which will elevate casual outfits into smart-casual territory. Photo © Loake
And there you have it, quite possibly the internet’s most comprehensive guide to creating a classically stylish capsule wardrobe! As I said, it may seem a little overwhelming at first but when you start putting a few of these items together, the pieces of the style puzzle will start to fall into place. If you’re working with a tight budget then Uniqlo is a good place to start. I can recommend their jeans, OCBDs, t-shirts and knitwear. They even offer free, in-store alterations on their jeans and chinos. Their quality has declined in recent years but their value-to-quality ratio is still good enough.
If you’d like any further advice or you have any questions about my selections, feel free to comment below or send me a message. I’d love to hear your thoughts.
Thanks for reading,
Terry
